Day 27 - Isle of Rum

Tuesday 19^th July 2016 – Mallaig to Isle of Rum

An early rise; to a beautiful sun-shiny day.

Mallaig

   

Sound of Sleat

 

I took a walk to the top of the hill behind the marina, which you could now see with its communications mast stuck on the top, to take pictures of the town and the Sound of Sleat.

At 10.00 called the harbour control for permission to leave and three of us had to wait before following a ferry out of the harbour.  Once outside quickly hoisted the main sail to dry out and engaged the auto helm.

Tea and  shorts on

   

Craig

In idyllic surroundings we enjoyed a breakfast of egg and bacon rolls while crossing the Sound of Rum.

Brave lad

At 13.00, we entered Loch Scresort on the Isle of Rum and anchored in 3 mtrs of water.  The rib was inflated, launched and outboard attached, then Craig the brave lad went for a swim.

Shortly afterwards the yacht ‘Valda’ came in and anchored behind us, we had first met while in Stromness in the Orkneys.

At 16.00 we used the rib to go ashore, passing ‘Valda’ on the way and hailed on our greetings and tied up at the old pier.

Camp site

At the nearby camp site, we enquired if it was possible to have a shower there and the young guitar playing manager said we were most welcome. 

Anchorage

We strode along the loch shoreline admiring the other boats at anchor.

Kinloch Castle

Past the imposing Kinloch Castle, although you can arrange for a tour, not too sure if it is still used as a residence.

Village

Into the village which consisted of small amount of stone and wooden buildings, whether residents or temporary accommodation not too sure but it had a commune feel about it.

A small shop was attached to the village hall and we were able to purchase beer and a beef burger, while inside the hall there was wi-fi reception and we took full advantage.

We had our shower on the way back in the camp site building which was great and the residents here all came from Glasgow University.

   

Back in the rib to the boat and took advantage of another photo-shoot in this tranquil place, but don’t be fooled.

On board by 19.30 and in the warm evening light brought out the banjo for the first time this trip and enjoyed half an hour practice.

Rigged the anchor light at 22.15 and off to bed, a wonderful day, more to our liking.

Day 26 - Mallaig

Monday 18^th July 2016 – Mallaig – Day 26

It is still raining is this still possible, who would want to come here for a holiday?

Visitors from the Isle of Barra

The fishing boats which have stayed here over the weekend have left, is this a good sign?

At 11.00 Craig arrived, a new crew member to relieve Syd.  Craig is a member of the yacht club and had driven up in my car, after spending the night in a hotel on Loch Lomond.  While Syd was taking the car back to my home and staying the night, before catching the train the next day to his home in Penzance, Cornwall. Thank you Syd for the good company and help along the way.

Miraculously it stopped raining at 18.00, we walked along to the station and watched the steam train leave at 18.40 for its journey to Fort William.  Into the Co-op to get provisions before going into the ‘Chlachain Inn’ for a meal and at 19.00, I could see the back edge of the rain in the black cloud above.

Harbour

   

Marina

 

An hour later and it was a different world as the sun appeared, too good to miss, as we strolled round the harbour in this new light.

Early to bed and looking forward to being back at sea tomorrow.

Day 25 - Mallaig

Sunday 17^th July, 2016 – Mallaig

The rain has not left us and the blogsite is torturous with a very weak wi-fi signal.

'Jacobite' Steam Train

Every day there is steam train excursion from Fort William to Mallaig and the service is fully booked, reputed to pass through some of the most picturesque scenery in the country (if you can see it).

For some relief, I went to the station and next door visited the Heritage centre which displayed Mallaig’s history, the growth of the fishing industry, the building of the railway and the ferry link to the islands.

Syd went off on one of the ferries to the islands of Eigg and Muck but he did not see much with the mist and low hanging clouds.

A meal at night once more in the ‘Chlachain Inn’ and a nite cap in the ‘The Steam Inn’ were the highlights of the evening.

It has rained all day but stopped for 15 minutes at 20.00, then continued raining all night.  I am glad I have a portable heater on board and a spare one on stand-by, the joys of visiting Scotland.

Day 24 - Mallaig

Saturday 16^th July 2016 – Mallaig – Day 24

A cold, cloudy morning and the rain commenced at 10.30.

In the meantime, Syd had gone off to Fort William, unfortunately the trains were on strike this weekend but a replacement bus service at 10.00.  The bus was full, so he came back on board and the brave lad set off again for the 11.00 normal bus service to Fort William which takes one and a half hours at a cost of £7.50p return.

Mallaig another dreek day

I spent the day on board, cleaning the boat and playing with the blogsite which was very difficult to publish, but I was warm with the portable electric heater on.

Syd came back at 17.00 after having a good day out which had been spoilt by the weather, he could not Ben Nevis, but he saw lots of white caps on the waves at Loch Linnie.

The ‘Chlachain Inn’ for soup and bucket full of mussels, Syd had haddock and chips.

In the ‘Marine Arms’, the local fishermen were involved with a pool competition and the winner was given a lot of money for his efforts.

The wind and rain have been relentless.

Day 23 - Mallaig

Friday 15^th July 2016 – Mallaig – Day 23

By 09.30 it started raining and half an hour later it became heavier as the wind increased.

Mallaig on a dreek day

The marina facilities included a laundry and Syd kindly volunteered to do the washing, he also went to the Co-op for provisions and went off to the chandlers to stock up on diesel.  This was the cheapest on the trip at 50p a litre.

While, I struggled on with the computer on a very slow wi-fi connection, you cannot blame everyone for not using it on a day like this.

Ventured ashore at 20.00 for a meal in ‘The Steam Inn’ of soup and seafood pizza, Syd still enjoying his cullen skink and steak pie with chips.

Moving on into the ‘Marine Bar’ met two other yachties from Whitehaven and had a good old natter about sailing and the Scottish weather.

A very wet, cold and blustery day.

Day 22 - Mallaig

Thursday 14^th July 2016 – Portree to Mallaig – Day 22

Awake at 07.00 and a beautiful morning, the rib and its motor were brought back on board.

Portree Moorings

   

   

Choc box pic

At last, Scotland as you hope to find it, peaceful with a stunning backdrop.

We let go of our mooring buoy at 08.00 and just outside the harbour turned the boat around in circles and checked the auto-helm for compass deviation, then set off down the Sound of Raasay.

Exit from Portree

Sound of Raasay

It was not long before we were enjoying a breakfast of bacon and egg buns sat in the cockpit enjoying the scenery.

Narrows

Ferry

   

An hour later and we were passing through the narrows here the ferry connects the Isle of Skye and Raasay. 







Before passing through another narrow channel Caol Mor, the seals and porpoises began to show themselves.

Skye Bridge

At 12.00, we were lined up to pass under the Skye Bridge which caused controversy when it first opened due to the high cost of the toll to use it.  Nowadays it is free connecting the mainland to the island.

After passing through the Kyle of Loch Alsh, you turn south and enter the Kyle Rhea, here the currents are strong in the narrow channel with whirlpools and eddies clearly visible.  The auto helm was finding it difficult to react to these conditions. At the southern end the current was at its strongest, slowing us down, while at the same time there were more seals to be seen, obviously an ideal feeding ground for them.

Strange Ferry design

Here this strange design for a ferry took passengers and vehicles across the narrows.

Loch Nevis entrance

The weather was changing with a strong breeze from the south, as we neared our destination and crossed the mouth of the picturesque Loch Nevis.

With a lot of ferry traffic at Mallaig, you have to call the harbour control for permission to enter, who inform you of the traffic signals.  If the three red lights come on at the end of the pier, the ferry is on the move, you stop and wait.

At 17.00 we were safely alongside the pontoon, ashore an hour later for a welcoming shower, then off into the town.

Into the ‘Chlachain Inn’ for a meal with a starter of haggis, followed by haddock and chips, while Syd enjoyed his Cullen shink (fish soup) and a beef burger.

The night’s entertainment was a quiz which was very slow, as the host took an age between the questions, we became bored with this and moved to ‘The Steam Inn’ and caught the last part of the news on the tely but more importantly the weather forecast.

A very interesting day, a morning of beauty leaving Portree, underneath the Skye Bridge, the currents of Kyle Rhea and its sea life, and the safety of Mallaig, as the weather begins to change.

Day 21 - Portree

Wednesday 13^th July 2016 – Gairloch to Portree – Day 21

An early start, as we let go of the Dutch yacht ‘Polyander’ at 08.00 and happy to be leaving Gairloch.

We were motoring down the Sound of Raasay which separates the islands of Rona and Raasay and the east coast of the Isle of Skye.  We could see heavy showers ahead of us but never materialised.

We listened on the radio to David Cameron’s last Prime Minister’s question time to keep us entertained.

Portree entrance

At 13.45 we were making our approach into Portree harbour which is bounded by high cliffs and at 14.30, we were safety attached to the mooring buoy ‘M’.

Moored

   

Nice Spot

The rib was removed from the aft locker and inflated on deck before being launched.

The outboard motortaken from the rail and placed on the back of the rib, fuelled up and tested, taken out for a test run, while at the same time used for a photo-shoot.

At 17.30 we ventured ashore in the rib and left her tied up next to the lifeboat station.  For mooring fees you place your £10 in the honesty box at the lifeboat door letter box.

Portree

A walk up the hill found the town very busy with visitors.  Into the ‘Tongadale Hotel’ for a couple of pints, back down the hill to the fish restaurant which was fully booked, so back up the hill to the same pub where we enjoyed a meal for myself, mussels, then haggis tatties and neaps, while Syd enjoyed cullen shink (fish shop) then fish and chips.

Onward to the town square, here the street signs have English names at the top with Gaelic translation on the bottom.  Into the ‘Portree Hotel’, here we enjoyed the live music.  We took advantage of the Co-op still being open and stocked up with essentials.  The girl serving us was from Poland, and told of her life on the Isle of Skye but she did not like the Scottish winters, I knew exactly how she felt.

Portree at night

A trip back in the rib to the boat was no problem, though at night, there was still enough light to find our way home.

A wonderful day, a nice run across to the island and into an enchanting port; which proved to be on the tourist map, we were happy to be there with them.

Day 20 - Gairloch

Tuesday 12^th July 2016 – Stornoway to Gairloch – Day 20

Up early at 07.00 and let go of ‘Nemo’ and on our way.  At 08.00 passed the Arnish Point light house and with full sail set off across The Minch.

The Isle of Lewis south of Stornoway has a very rugged coastline, we had enjoyed our stay there and the people were very nice and friendly.

We were heading back to the mainland and we saw very little shipping and no yachts while crossing The Minch.

Loch Ewe

It was a cracking sail all the way over to Loch Ewe at an average speed of 5.5 knots. We just looked into the loch before heading out again, it was here the wartime convoys used to assemble before heading off to Russia.

It now became a little difficult with the wind and tide against as we tried to get round the next headland. 

Rubha Reidh Light House

Eventually at 17.45 we made it round, passing the imposing light house and two hours later we were in Gairloch and tied up alongside ‘Polyander’ a Dutch 43 feet yacht on Flowerdale Bay jetty.

Syd came up with a meal of toast, cheese, ham and egg (from his Navy days), followed by Mr. Kipling fruit pies.

We did not go ashore, as we were four abreast on the jetty and the drizzle had started, there did not appear to be any amenities on the shore.

There was also a slight lift on the sea, so we were gently rocked to sleep.

Day 19 - Stornoway

Monday 11^th July 2016 – Stromness – Day 19

I am ill, hang over from the whiskey consumption and awake at the crack of noon.

Walk into town and the HS1 café for breakfast which consisted of cheese and ham toastie with chips.

Went to the chandler’s but they did not have a Hebridean flag and enquired at the harbour office whether a berth was possible in the marina.  No chance, as it is folk festival week and we have to stay alongside the French yacht ‘Nemo’ on Esplanade Quay.

Went shopping in the Co-op and Argos before using the marina facilities; a wonderful shower and brush up.

Ullapool Ferry

A more interesting walk around the harbour saw the Stornoway to Ullapool ferry leave.

Council Building

The harbour has this magnificent council building and an unusual feature of the street names were all in Gaelic with the English equivalent in smaller letters underneath.

Lewis Castle

Across the river stands Lewis Castle which is presently being renovated and houses the local college.  The grounds were being taken over by large marques as a tented city was being erected for the festival which starts on Thursday.

Stornoway

From the castle side there is this wonderful view over the town on this delightful summer’s evening.

Back into the Royal Hotel for a meal of haggis/black pudding starter, braised steak main course, a fruit meringue for dessert, all very nice.

For the last hour into the Harbour View to listen to young musicians playing their own brand of folk music, mostly fiddle players and good.

On board for 23.00 and read the Sunday papers, an interesting day walking around the town.